These locks are no more or less inherently secure than standard pin tumbler locks, although the external exposure of their pins makes picking them (and designing sophisticated picking tools for them) somewhat simpler. These skills become very important when picking better quality locks, so take your time here. Practice distinguishing between the pin states and then finish picking the cylinder. Get in the habit of making a systematic "inventory" of the states of the pin stacks after you set each new pin. It's possible that the plug will turn as soon as you set the first pin; if this happens, it's because you inadvertently lifted the other pin with the shaft of your pick while you were working on the first one. Once you do this, one of the pins will be in the unset/binding state while the other (the one you set) will be in the set/not-binding state . Learn what a pin in that state feels like.

It feels "springy," as it does when no torque is applied. If both feel springy, you're not applying enough torque (which is unlikely). One of them should feel springy, just as it did with no torque applied. For this exercise, you'll use your torque tool and pick on the two pin lock to put the pins in each of these states to learn what they feel like with your pick. Apply some torque to the plug and feel the two pin stacks with your pick. Figure 5. Applying torque. See Figure 5. With the tool in the keyway, apply torque and try to turn the plug. If this happens, you won't get the lock open until you release torque and start over. Some locks will open both clockwise and counterclockwise, but many will only open when turned a particular way, what is billiards depending on the configuration of the underlying locking mechanism. Note that these locks have been deliberately pinned with a short pin behind a long one.

Take note of the direction the keys turn on doors you use to help develop an inituition about which direction to apply torque. Now re-apply torque and set the first binding pin. It's binding because it's the one most out of alignment in the direction you're turning, and so its top pin is being pinched (gently) between the plug and the shell. As you lift the pin stack with torque applied, eventually its cut will reach the shear line, allowing the plug to turn; the top pin will then be completely trapped in the shell, while the bottom pin stays in the plug, no longer held down by spring pressure. For example, Medeco locks use special wedge-shaped bottom pins that are rotated into one of several possible positions by the key cuts (which can be cut at different angles). It is usually possible to insert the torque tool at either the top or bottom part of the keyway.

Understanding the theory of lock picking is only a small part of being able to successfully pick locks. You may want to use one of the smaller torque tools as well, or put your torque tool in the bottom part of the keyway instead of the (curvy) top. Several positions are possible; here a vertically-oriented torque tool is used at the top of the keyway. Now (as long as you continue to apply torque) the other pin should be binding. Now the plug is being prevented from moving by the next most misaligned pin (which, in this case, is the other pin, since there are only two). The pin is not picked but is not the currently most misaligned one. Your goal is to learn to do this with the absolute minimum amount of torque needed to bind the most misaligned pin enough to distinguish it from the other one. The lock will never pick open in this state; you must release torque and start over. This keyway is more "open" than the Arrow, and there aren't really any "platforms" on which to pivot your pick.

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